The authenticity of Neapolitan pizza in Cagliari, at Pizzeria Maiori, is signed by Emanuele Riemma. With an approach that combines tradition and innovation, the Neapolitan pizzaiolo distinguishes himself through meticulous care in dough, attention to high-quality ingredients, and a philosophy that celebrates simplicity and excellence.
Recently, he embarked on a journey to the United States for a consultancy that allowed him to compare himself with the international scene, bringing his experience and unique style across the ocean. In this interview, he shares his journey, the method behind his creations, and his future projects.
Emanuele, what has your personal journey been like? How did your love for pizza begin, and what brought you from Maiori to Cagliari?
“After my career in competitive sports, I ventured into the world of pizza for a year, then left for Australia to gain experience. In Sydney, I worked at renowned pizzerias and opened a place with my brother, who has lived there for 30 years. After returning to Naples, my curiosity for dough and techniques led me to transform what had been a simple job into a true passion. It’s been a gradual journey from Sydney to Naples, and then to Cagliari, where I arrived for a one-month consultancy, and here I am still.”
Is there a mentor or reference figure in the pizza world who inspired your style?
“I’ve learned a lot from all the experiences I’ve had. Every place I’ve worked has had someone who left me with something valuable. The turning point came when I met Raffaele Bonetta in Naples. I consider myself, in a sense, his apprentice, not because it’s a convenient statement, but because I truly consider him a friend and mentor. We shared events and professional moments that were very formative for me. Raffaele was the spark that ignited my conceptual approach to pizza, and his style and philosophy have left a profound mark on me.”
What is the secret behind the Riemma method?
“The Riemma method was born almost by accident, a result of a series of events and particular circumstances. I was working in Pozzuoli, in a renowned place, during the time of Tutto Pizza. During that period of events and work, I would often experiment with dough, using leftovers from tests and experiments. It was during this time of idea exchanges and experimentation, especially with people like Raffaele Bonetta, that I began to reflect differently on dough, not just following recipes but trying to understand why things happen. Why does dough behave in a certain way, what happens inside, and what can I achieve by thinking outside the box? I don’t follow pre-set recipes or formulas, I try to create something personal and unique, not necessarily better, but something that reflects my vision. The Riemma method is just that: continuous study, born from curiosity, experiments, and exchanges, which allowed me to develop a product that today I can define as unique and closely tied to my way of seeing things.”
What is the technical essence of your method?
“Working with a living product like dough means dealing with many variables every day, so each preparation for me is unique. My method develops in two stages: a low-hydration preferment for 24 hours, which gives aroma and structure, and the final shaping, where the dough takes its final form. The result is a light, soft, and melt-in-the-mouth pizza, capable of offering a unique gastronomic experience.”
What is your favorite pizza? Is there a story behind this choice?
“My favorite pizza has roots in my memories of when I practiced Taekwondo. During diet breaks, I would eat calzone with salami, margherita, or a white pizza with ham, arugula, and parmesan, pizzas I enjoyed with my soul. Even today, I prefer those same pizzas. Once a month, I also treat myself to a special moment: I sit down and eat my pizza slowly, just as a customer would. It’s a way for me to truly understand their experience, observing the pizza and service with fresh eyes. Changing perspective allows you to notice details that would otherwise slip by, and it’s crucial to continuously improve.”
What defines a true Neapolitan pizza? How do you keep this tradition alive in Cagliari?
“When I decided to move to Cagliari at 26, I was certain of the product I was bringing: I wanted to offer an authentic Neapolitan pizza, without compromises. I brought with me experience, tradition, and attention to Campanian products, because I knew that to stand out, it was essential to stay true to my identity. In Cagliari, Neapolitan pizza had a reputation for being heavy and hard to digest, partly due to a lack of attention to detail. I, on the other hand, focused on a clean, original product suitable for all palates, while maintaining a strong connection to my Campanian roots. Over time, this choice proved to be successful.”
How do you balance traditional recipes with modern taste?
“For me, balancing tradition and innovation is fundamental. I always try to stay true to the recipes I grew up with, the ones from my family, but at the same time, I like to add an innovative touch. For example, instead of using lemon zest, I make a lemon gel, changing the texture without altering the dish. Although tradition is the foundation of my work, I live in a world that’s constantly evolving, so it’s natural to experiment, especially after traveling and seeing different cuisines. However, I always try to keep a low profile and simple flavors, without overdoing it or drastically altering things.”
Can you tell us about your recent trip to the United States? Was there something about the pizza scene in the U.S. that struck you?
“My trip to the United States was organized with a Sicilian chef friend I worked with in Sydney. Today, he’s the executive chef of a pizzeria in New York, and we met for a consultancy to reorganize his place. The city is fascinating, with a history that makes it unique, but in terms of pizza, I didn’t see many new things. What I noticed, in general, is that in the U.S., as well as in Australia, there is a certain freedom in approaching dishes, mixing ingredients in unusual ways. However, Neapolitan pizza always remains popular, even in New York, where I worked to reorganize the restaurant and give a new shape to its offerings.”
Lastly, how do you see yourself in the next few years? Are there any new projects on the horizon?
“At the moment, I don’t have concrete projects in the works. In a few years, like all professionals who love their work, I’d like to have my own pizzeria, a project that can reflect all the experience and passion I’ve accumulated over the last ten years. But for now, I want to keep growing and dedicate myself to the work I love with enthusiasm.”